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Post by robocop on Jan 13, 2011 9:11:15 GMT -5
caught my first yote.had a hard time skinning it.
even had a harder time trying to flesh it.
there must be an easier way,anyone have any tips
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Post by fuzz269 on Jan 13, 2011 9:20:42 GMT -5
Just repeat it 40 or 50 times a season and it will get eazer lolol, some couotes just hold onto thier hides, usualy older ones. if ya catch them live I found they peel alittle eazer9 cause they are still warm when you get them to the fur shead). once it it peeled I like to put the hide out side for a while or even leave it on the floor of my fur shead for the night(my floor is cold) then fleash it the next day once the fat has hardend up alittle. If ya get a water headed one in a snare fine saw dust will be your best friend. Hope this helps alittle.
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Post by robocop on Jan 13, 2011 20:19:21 GMT -5
The way this one went,i don't want to repeat it again.
Thanks fuzz.
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Post by oldyote on Jan 14, 2011 7:37:50 GMT -5
I winch mine of but if you are getting started a few tools will help. I used to use a old pair of tin snips (they look like giant siscors) for the tail bone and I still dig them out on stubborn ones. I also used to use a hammer when I got to in between the the front legs where the hide is realy tight and you might have a hard time telling the hidr from the carcass. I also still use a piece of steal rod about 1/2 inch and with nice rounded rnds on it and about a foot long. I use this after I have the hide presuaded down to his arm pit I push it threw the arm pit and pull down untill it starts to peel down his leg then I lift on it utill I have It pas the joint. I have heard of a few guys who flesh them on a board with a knife But I have never seen it my self. The only way I can is with a beam. I stuggled through quite a few untill I sold some whole and asked the guy if I could watch . He ended up beng one heck of a guy and even my kids have a pet name for him 'old Bill" from Lloydminster.
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Post by robocop on Jan 14, 2011 8:58:57 GMT -5
So they are a real SOB to skin,,its not just me.
I had to cut a lot of meat off between the front legs
unsure how deep the hide was.
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Post by gth on Jan 14, 2011 11:21:08 GMT -5
I had to cut a lot of meat off between the front legs unsure how deep the hide was. You gotta be careful in that area, thats a really easy place to screw up. Best thing to do is put your knife down, get a rag for grip and keep pulling. If I mess up a critter with my knife 9 times out of 10 its in that area. |
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Post by fuzz269 on Jan 14, 2011 11:55:20 GMT -5
Ya I have put a few holes in coyotes right there too, I keep a big phillips head screw driver at my skinnin rig and use it to help get the hide free there, then once I can get it threw the the under arm I grab both ends of the screw driver and pull straight down. Till the hide is past the elbow joint on the front leg.
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Post by robocop on Jan 17, 2011 8:59:49 GMT -5
My coyote stinks bad took it off the board and there is a white-ish grey powder on most off the hide.looks like mold  |
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Post by catmando1 on Jan 17, 2011 21:00:37 GMT -5
My coyote stinks bad took it off the board and there is a white-ish grey powder on most off the hide.looks like mold Drying conditions are pretty important. I like between 55-60 degrees F., with 30-40 % humidity, and a good circulation of air from a window fan. Let no sunlight in. |
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Post by bctomcat on Jan 17, 2011 21:47:57 GMT -5
Looks like you turned it fur side out to soon. I often leave mind to long and have to wrap in wet towels to soften for turning and they dry out well for some reason I don't quite understand after having been to dry, not like if turned to early.
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decoy
New Member
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Post by decoy on Jan 17, 2011 22:58:41 GMT -5
Fuzz is correct.......skin warm
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Post by wolf1199 on Jan 17, 2011 23:34:29 GMT -5
My coyote stinks bad took it off the board and there is a white-ish grey powder on most off the hide.looks like mold Mold happens when you have dampness or to much humidity. When drying fur you should have between 50 and 60 degrees as a temp. you don't want your fur to dry to fast or to long.I do not have yotes but i do have wolves and when i put one on the board it stays leather out for two days untill the noes area dry's enough then will flip and leave for another 5 days.Air circulation is critical as well as heat. these 2 factors will play an important role in how your fur turns out. Catching the fur is one thing but proper drying and having the facilities to do it is another. |
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Post by gth on Jan 18, 2011 7:57:56 GMT -5
I often leave mind to long and have to wrap in wet towels to soften for turning and they dry out well for some reason I don't quite understand after having been to dry, not like if turned to early. I have had a fox or 2 with a stinky nose after coming off the board so I let them dry right out now. Then like you I wrap in a wet towel to soften them and then turn fur out. Havent had a problem with mold or stinky hides since. |
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Post by white316 on Jan 19, 2011 9:21:04 GMT -5
Coyotes take a while to dry the nose area.
up to 2 days depending on drying temperature.
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puppa
Junior Member
Posts: 48
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Post by puppa on Jan 19, 2011 18:17:06 GMT -5
Back to the skinning of the front legs part...
The fur of the front legs has no value other than presentation. To make skinning easier, I cut the front legs right off close to the elbow. Then you can make a short slit in the remainder and skin towards the chest as far as you can reach. This will make skinning the chest area much, much easier when you get to that point later on.
If the coyote is frozen whole for a long time, the tailbone will dry out and make it tough to pull. On the tough ones I split them right to the tip and the bone peels out very easy, like pullin a banana from the peel. If they are fresh, I use cotton mesh gloves or 2 rags, grab on and pull. It works good for me.
I flesh on a beam made from a 2x8 shaped like a stretcher. I made a fleshing knife about 18" long from 1/8 by 1" standard carbon steel flat bar and made it real sharp on one side. It is somewhat flexible and conforms to the shape of the beam and I find it works very well. I find also that fleshing in a cool area is best. If it's too warm, the fat turns to oil and the surface of the saddle gets a little dry and basically you are just squeezing the oil out and making a mess. I used to leave the saddles on, I might go back to that some day. If you find it too warm and dry, you can put wet paper towels on it while you work.
If your nose/lips/head become too dry before you get a chance to turn it, wrap the head in wet rags and cover with a plastic bag for a short while, it will soften right up. When you turn the pelt, get a steel rod about 1/4" diameter and make a hook on one end and a 90 degree bend in the other end, it should be about 6 feet long. Put the 90 deg bend in a vice or make a hook on a workbench to hold it. Slide the pelt on the rod, stick the hook on the lip or nose, and roll the pelt down like a sock, really quick and works great.
The winch method works really well but you will find that after you do a few hundred that you can have one skinned right out before you would have one hooked up to the winch. When you are skinning, don't be afraid to get a good grip and PULL! You will only have to touch it with a knife once in a while, but the hide will slide right off with practice.
Have fun.
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