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Post by maxwell on Sept 21, 2010 19:43:05 GMT -5
Does any of you have any tips for sharpening knives.
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Post by backwoodsman on Sept 23, 2010 13:05:37 GMT -5
Light coat of oil on stone. For touchups I will use a dry stone. If the stone gets full of grime just soak it an hour or two in dish soaped water, good as new. I prefer to work the blade in a circular motion and count the same for both side ie: to ten for each side. The sharpening systems help too if you have trouble keeping the blade at the same angle on each side.
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Post by Cam on Sept 24, 2010 6:49:22 GMT -5
I also use a razor strap,for the final touch up.
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Post by fuzz269 on Sept 24, 2010 9:57:20 GMT -5
I use evry thing, I have a 3 sided butchers stone in an iol bath, some sharping steals as well as a few leather strops to put the final eadge on.
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Post by sneakysnake on Oct 7, 2010 9:34:13 GMT -5
If you have a buffing wheel on your grinder, you can use a jewelers rouge and buff the blade, My farrier taught me this and it works great, plus it does not remove a lot of material from the blade. I also have a leather wheel that does an excellant job. The leather is oiled and a light abrasive is applied. This method tends to take off more material than buffing and is good to use if the knife is really dull. It will sharpen a hand axe to the point you can shave with it. Good Luck
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Post by catmando1 on Oct 9, 2010 19:59:18 GMT -5
Most of the time I'm using a steel. A steel is designed to return the edge back to where it belongs. Done properly, several draws backwards or a "reverse" slice, on each side will "fold" the edge back into shape. Many times I don't have to do nothing more than this. If it needs more, I then draw it one or two times, per side, forwards, or like you would be slicing with it. After a few repetitions, I will feel the blade by drawing my finger over the edge at a 90 degree angle, feeling what the edge is like. Then I bring my hand around to test the other side of the knife and check the opposite edge. If one side feels sharper than the other edge, I then very lightly draw the sharper feeling edge, forward, down the steel once, and test it again. Sometimes just barely letting the blade touch the steel with almost no pressure is what it takes to get both sides feeling the same. Once at this point and knowing both sides are even, I will test to see if the blade will shave hair cleanly and easily. If not I will start the "Forward motion" process again until it is shaving hair cleanly.
If I am sharpening a knife for someone that has a horrible edge( mine never get to that point!), which I about won't do anymore, I go thru a process of coarse to fine whet stones, then a ceramic or teflon type rod with oil.
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Post by robocop on Oct 12, 2010 21:26:12 GMT -5
catman i hate to ask a question that sounds stupid but i have to.
I have a steel paid $ 10.00 for it,and i find it doesn't help a bit
is this why its to cheap,,or am i not using it right.
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Post by catmando1 on Oct 13, 2010 19:26:15 GMT -5
catman i hate to ask a question that sounds stupid but i have to. I have a steel paid $ 10.00 for it,and i find it doesn't help a bit is this why its to cheap,,or am i not using it right. Hmmmm, that is a tough one. The one I use isn't an expensive one, but it is built right and works good. I guess technically, your problem could be a bad steel, or perhaps how you are using it.... sometimes it can be a low grade knife too. If you are using it in the manner I described above, then it about has to be the quality or state of the sharpener, or the knife. Will the knife sharpen with other sharpeners? If it takes a good edge on something else then it had to be the steel. I definately wouldn't discount using steels if that is the case, I hardly use anything else and love it. I have had mine for about 12 years now. |
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Post by robocop on Oct 22, 2010 18:29:16 GMT -5
catman thanks for your insite.
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Post by catmando1 on Oct 22, 2010 23:14:37 GMT -5
anytime robo...... I dont know how much help I was, I hope some. Maybe gave some ideas.
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